Few things are both thrilling and terrifying at the same time. Catching a wave definitely fits both categories. When you paddle out there is that anticipation of whats coming, but you don't really know how crazy it will be until it arrives. Then when that swell comes, you kick like a mad man hoping to catch the wave and then go for a sweet ride. Or you kick in to the wave and it just smacks you and you wipe out.
One time, I was at Calafia with my boogie board and I just missed a wave. I thought I could paddle in to the wave even though it passed me so I started kicking as hard as I could. All of a sudden, I was on top of the wave as it was cresting and I looked over the top of it and all I could see was sand. Before I could figure out what was happening, I tumbled over the wave and my board hit the sand like a javelin. Then I crashed stomach first into the edge of the board. It felt like someone punched me in the gut. Everything was happening both fast and slow at the same time. I remember doubling over in pain for what felt like forever, but then the wave came crashing down on top of me. Needless to say, I was done catching waves for the day after that wipe out.
Regardless of wiping out or catching a wave, it is amazing that the world is situated in such a way that we have the chance to go out and ride the waves if we are so inclined.
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| Not Me |
On blessings of the day,
They are too numerous
to count
Of a world intricately woven,
Of sights, of smells, of sounds
To live a life so full and fun,
Not merely to exist
To accept the natural blessings,
The love that life insists
To know these things, to live them out,
Our love we freely give
In this life that is what it means
To be privileged to live
To stand still is to spin around
On the surface of this earth
To stand atop snowy mountains,
To ride the oceans surf
To run across the meadows,
To find treasure in the ground
To take a look at the night sky,
All the glowing stars around
To experience to its fullness
The best that love can give
In this life that is what it means
To be privileged to live
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